At Ace Hotel Brooklyn, Sushi Koju serves omakase on hand-painted Kyoto ceramics to a vinyl soundtrack of Japanese City Pop. The restaurant blends five hundred years of tradition with Brooklyn’s contemporary energy and offers more than exceptional sushi; it creates a multi-sensory journey through sound, taste, and hospitality.
A harmony of old and new
Sushi Koju’s concept centers on a unique fusion incorporating modern Japanese culture, cuisine, and aesthetics, while honoring authentic traditional techniques and values. The restaurant embodies what could be called a new movement in Japanese American dining, where historical elements are presented through a contemporary lens.
This philosophy manifests in every detail. Vinyl records spin a collection consisting entirely of Japanese City Pop from the 1920s through the 1990s. The restaurant’s ceramics are hand-painted by a renowned Kyoto artist using traditional methods, yet the pieces themselves reflect modern design sensibilities. The artwork adorning the walls comes from the current generation of a kimono fabric family with a centuries-old history.
The food follows the same principle. While classic dishes like tuna nigiri remain straightforward and traditional, the menu also features innovative creations such as uni with caviar, representing the integration of old and new.
Sushi Koju’s collection of Japanese City Pop vinyls
Why Downtown Brooklyn?
The choice of Downtown Brooklyn as Sushi Koju’s home was intentional and strategic. While Manhattan’s omakase scene has reached saturation, Brooklyn’s culinary landscape continues to evolve. The owners saw an opportunity to be part of Brooklyn’s growing fine dining movement, offering a new interpretation of omakase that resonates with the borough’s creative energy.
“Brooklyn has this hip-hop scene, and fits perfectly into where we’re located,” explains Executive Chef Kevin Garrison. “It creates this really nice integration of old school with new school; it’s Brooklyn’s vibe.“
The location at Ace Hotel Brooklyn also provides a unique advantage, drawing both residents seeking sushi options in the neighborhood and hotel guests who can spread the word about this special omakase experience.
The Omakase Experience
From the moment guests arrive, Sushi Koju creates an immersive atmosphere. Guests are encouraged to arrive early to enjoy Japanese-infused cocktails, sake, whiskey, or selections from an extensive wine collection, along with small bites before settling at the sushi bar. The meal follows a carefully choreographed progression:
Three Appetizers:
A straightforward Japanese dish showcasing traditional flavors, typically featuring sashimi with a subtle modern twist
Something fun and exciting, often a fried item or izakaya-style dish
A rich, luxurious Japanese creation with contemporary touches
Sushi Progression:
The sushi service begins light, featuring white fish and delicate flavors enhanced with citrus notes. The middle section introduces heavier, more robust fish, while the final pieces deliver rich, fatty, indulgent bites that leave a lasting impression.
Seasonal Specials:
The specials menu changes regularly, featuring luxurious seasonal fish available in limited quantities. One favorite is kinmedai (golden eye snapper), a rare fish found only in the Sea of Japan. These rotating offerings ensure that each visit brings discoveries.
The experience concludes with miso soup to aid digestion, followed by dessert.
Seasonal nigiri offerings
Ichi-go Ichi-e: Every Moment is Once in a Lifetime
The Japanese concept of ichi-go ichi-e shapes every experience at Sushi Koju. This philosophy, which translates roughly to “one time, one meeting” or “treasure every encounter, for it will never recur,” is reflected in the restaurant’s commitment to creating singular experiences.
The music selection changes nightly, creating different musical atmospheres. Fish sourced from Japan varies by season, bringing subtle nuances to familiar dishes. The seasonal specials menu reflects what’s currently available, what interests the chefs, and what might educate or delight guests. Diners can expect to encounter at least one dish they haven’t tried before or may never have the chance to try again.
Executive Chef Kevin Garrison
Omotenashi: Hospitality Reimagined
When asked about omotenashi, the Japanese concept of hospitality, Sushi Koju’s approach becomes clear. Traditional omotenashi emphasizes subtle, quiet attention to detail: noticing which hand a guest uses, for example, and adjusting service to match their preferences without compromising the menu’s integrity. Sushi Koju also embraces what hospitality means in America: an open, robust, friendly, and welcoming atmosphere. The team strives to blend hyper-focused Japanese service with the warm, familiar approachability that American diners appreciate.
“We want guests to feel that wonderful hospitality of being taken care of. It’s about bringing both the traditional focus on small details and this friendly, open familiarity together.“
Looking Ahead
Sushi Koju has received an enthusiastic reception from both locals, thrilled to have a high-end sushi option in Downtown Brooklyn, and visitors from around the world. Sushi Koju is open Tuesday through Saturday with two seatings per evening. The restaurant is exploring opening hours expansion or introducing a lunch program and additional service days.
The goal remains consistent: maintain the momentum, keep the vibe authentic, ensure the food is always exceptional, and build a stable local clientele while welcoming hotel guests from across the globe.
Visit Sushi Koju at Ace Hotel Brooklyn Tuesday – Saturday for one of their two seatings, at 6 PM, or 8:15 PM.
